bruges – Relay shun ships

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I am just back from a 4 day trip to Bruges. I wanted to be anywhwere, but here, for Christmas.

Christmas is a time for family. Since I was 19 years old I have always entertained/hosted people on Christmas day, save for a handful of times, where people have hosted me or I have gone away, with my family.

This year I didn’t want to be with any family at all. Not because I don’t like or love them, but because I just couldn’t face it and the constant reminder of what I had lost this year, and the previous two years.

1st my best friend, next my dad and this year my mum…. All gone. My parents were old, made it to 80, my friend only 56. It does something to you, death and loss. Something that is hard to explain and hard to navigate on any ordinary day, let alone Christmas day.

So, in order to rescue myself and my family from whatever Christmas day might do to me, emotionally, I decided being somewhere else would be better for all of us.

So Bruges it was. I had never been, but heard a bit about it and of course, I had seen the film, ‘In Bruges’ with Colin Farrell and Brendan Gleeson – great movie, by the way.

Off we went on the 23rd December, my husband and I. As soon as I walked outside of our hotel, alongside the canal, paths of cobbled stones underfoot, and buildings so ornate, that I would stop in wonder and marvel at the workmanship of the intricate details which they bore.

Christmas twinkling lights adorned this city, high and low and showcased its magnificence. Everywhere you looked, it was picture postcard pretty.

The ‘blue light’ street lights were a beacon for light installations around the city, such as the story of the swan. Legend has it that a young woman had been imprisoned by her father for refusing to marry a man, he wished her to marry. Locked up in the basement, her only comfort was two swans that would visit every day. After she was released, she had been left a fortune which she donated to the city to continue to take care of the swans.

Another story is, a curse put on the city by Emperor Maximilian (austrian), for the torture and beheading of his friend and trusted adviser, known as ‘long neck’. As a tribute to his friend, he forced the people of Bruges to keep long neck swans on the water for all eternity, and failure to do so, would be utter ruin for Bruges.

Whichever, if true or not, the swans on the water, in the light installation, was truly a beautiful wonder to watch.

The swan story…

Over our four days, we crammed as much in as possible. We did the boat tour around the canals, we went up the Belfry, 366 steps, not for the faint hearted, but reminded me of climbing the steps of Coventry Cathedral, my original home town, many times when I was a girl.

We went into Stadhuis (City Hall)….. Amazing, beautiful elegant building, still used for council meetings and even weddings and other official receptions.

City Hall…

On Christmas day we went to mass in the Church of the Holy Blood. This is in the corner of the same square as City Hall. The mass was beautiful. Even though it was said in Flemish, it was a beautiful experience and I could follow, for the most part, where we were in the mass.

I offered up my thoughts and prayers to my loved ones and of course, asked that God keep them safe in his care. It was a a truly special mass, in a very special church, and I felt a calm and comfort there. I was glad to take them, my loved ones, on my journey there.

I thought and pondered quite a while about, how my dad especially, had never visited such a beautiful place. He was never one to travel or go anywhere and there is so much in our own countries, towns and villages, let alone, the bigger world, that we often do not see. My dad hadn’t been much further than his own back yard.

Basicilica of the Holy Blood – Christmas day 2023

We visited several museums, including the salvador Dali exhibition, the Groeningemuseum and of course one or two biermuseums!

We ate waffles, belgian chocolate, like liquid gold melting on the tongue with its smooth creamy texture. Ribs, steaks, scallops, salads…you name it, we ate it. We drank their local beers and sampled their many beautiful restaurants.

On Christmas day, I wanted a nice restaurant and we were not disappointed. The Duc de Bourgogne, said to be one the most romantic restaurants in the Country, was simply stunning. The decor, the oppulance, their Christmas decorations and its location, overlooking the canal, was really lovely. The staff very friendly and funny. Not too ‘stuck up’ in that you could dress smart casual, but with an air of grandness about the place. The food and wine were delicious and I would definitely recommend.

Duc de Bourgogne

Apart from the buildings, the museums, the bars, restaurants and general beauty of this city, we also met some interesting people. A couple, one from Scotland the other from England, there to celebrate her 30th birthday.

Another couple from Oregon, they had arrived, but their luggage hadn’t. One of the guys has Belgian origin and citizenship but his partner, a true Oregon man, lived on a beautiful house boat there and was looking to sell, ohhhh if only! Drinking the ‘fleet’ of beer in the beer museum, enjoying our cheese plate, we passed a fun couple of hours chatting and exchanging stories with them.

We met a couple, who had just got engaged, they too were from the USA. Overlooking the market, from this balcony, we chatted to them and took pictures for them on their phones. Young and in love in a beautiful city for Christmas with an unexpected proposal to boot. She was a very happy girl and he was a very happy boy – she said YES.

We chatted with a man from Turkey, a teacher, on his travels and some Mexicans, enjoying their first trip to Europe.

On our last night a couple sat by our table. He was Australian she was Russian. He was an officer on a yacht and she dealt with chartering yachts but they lived in the South of France, Antibes. Lovely place of the world to live. We visited near there once, staying in Frejus, and driving around St. Raphael (where the Auzzie had once lived), St. Tropez, Cannes and Monaco. Like I said, beautiful.

They were interesting people and we laughed alot. As interesting as their jobs seemed, they had the same ups and downs as the people serving us in the restaurant…Life is like that, the job may give a status, a lifestyle of sorts, but take the job away and we are all left in the same boat, pardon the pun. Sailing, searching for love, happiness, companionship, friendship, peace.

No matter what bumps in the road, or little stumbles (in heels) on cobbled stoned roads, there is so much out there, in the world, outside of our own little bubbles, to be explored, enjoyed, welcomed and to escape for a few days, from the normality of our lives, the sadness, the mundane, the ordinary.

I didn’t miss not having a ‘usual Christmas’. My sadness and grief were well cloaked and diverted elsewhere, notwithstanding the fact that I had my loved ones there with me, tucked neatly away in my heart. My little escape, was just what the doctor ordered.